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blaw
Starting Member
2 Posts |
 Posted - 01/17/2007 : 15:46:57
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| I removed pins 44 and 41 (the logic power pin according to the drive spec.) In the spec for the drive the only jumper location was next to the ribbon connector and I checked that location. I could see no jumper(s)on any other part of the drive. I checked the pin outs on in the spec and it states that the drive and logic power pins (41 and 42) are jumpered internally. |
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tmt
Advanced Member
2766 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2007 : 21:00:07
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Well in that case it should work. Have you tried connecting the drive to a desktop
machine using a cable adapter? If you have access to a voltmeter, it would be a good
idea to check the logic supply too.
Tom. |
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JMS
Starting Member
6 Posts |
Posted - 11/12/2007 : 17:41:13
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i have been reading everything i can find relating to this subject, as im about to do the same for my cf-r2 let's note laptop since the hd is starting to give me blue screens.
i bought a Western Digital Scorpio WD1200BEVE 120GB 5400 RPM 8MB Cache ATA-6 Notebook Hard Drive. i dont have the ohm meter to determine whether or not i have to remove or bend pin 41, is it safe to simply bend the pin either way? or will having 41 and 42 connected while bending 41 to touch 42 cause trouble?
thanks!
hope the users who posted in this thread are still active on the forum... |
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tmt
Advanced Member
2766 Posts |
Posted - 11/12/2007 : 19:19:29
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Don't bend the pins! You need the connector to mate up perfectly, if you try this it
will break the cable, and maybe the notebook too. Besides, touching pins isn't a good
connection. Find a voltmeter and be sure. It's well worth it.
Tom. |
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lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
Posted - 11/13/2007 : 04:26:02
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[CF-R1N]
I cut pins 41 & 44 using embroidery scissors (common name "stork"). They have extremely fine needle nose blades the very tips of which will fit between the pins and make a neat cut. I had to buy my own for this purpose - not permitted to use the embroiderer's!
American Phillips screw-drivers are not an exact fit (shape) for the screws on the CF-R1N which are Japanese cross-point [JIS]. (Refer www.botmag.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270) JIS cross-point screw-drivers can be purchased from e.g. www.micro-tools.com or www.centralhobbies.com |
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lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
Posted - 11/13/2007 : 06:49:13
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quote:
Originally posted by MCK
Lapimate,
... In my case there was no paste but what appeared to be a thin black cushy pad, almost like dense foam rubber. The pad separated cleanly from the CPU. ...
Mike
I warmed the CF-R1N CPU up by running an intensive arithmetic loop (near 100% CPU utilisation) for about 20mins before disassembling the case etc. When I did the separation the heat transfer material also separated cleanly from the CPU (stayed attached to the heat-sink). The heat transfer material looked like a soft flexible shiny light-blue pad perhaps 0.5-1mm thick, not like friable heat-sink paste. I re-used that same pad.
Barney |
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JMS
Starting Member
6 Posts |
Posted - 11/13/2007 : 14:16:38
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update!
didnt get a chance to see your warning, tmt, but all worked out well.
i have a let's note CF-R2 (CF-R2AW1A2S) and i managed to swap out the Toshiba MK4020GLS for this new Western Digital Scorpio WD1200BEVE 120GB 5400 RPM 8MB Cache ATA-6 Notebook Hard Drive. after reading some of the posts on here, i realized some said they touched pins 41 and 42 but said they assumed they were already connected internally anyway. so i took a risk and simply bent 41 up so it was out of the equation altogether (no cutting), and that worked fine. i bent pin 44 out of the way, also without cutting. so far everything is working just fine.
what sucks is, the reason i swapped to this bigger hdd was my original one was giving me problems (or so i thought). i was getting random bsod in windows on my laptop, so i did a check disk and everytime i would, a bsod reboot would result. i assumed it was the hdd, but with the new drive it happened again. i installed windows with a different disc, and the problem seems to be solved now... so i guess it was just the copy of windows i was installing all along. oh well, at least i have 3 times the hdd capacity... lol.
anyone know where i can find cheap 1gb of pc2700 microdimm? cheapest i have found so far is about $230. they actually have 512 on newegg for a very reasonable $56.99 but i want 1gb stick if i can find it for a about 100 bucks give or take.
even though i apparently didnt need to upgrade my hdd, this forum is truly a blessing. glad i found it. all the other sites explaining the procedure were in japanese, and i didnt want to risk translation error. |
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FrankCH
Starting Member
Switzerland
7 Posts |
Posted - 11/05/2008 : 11:00:35
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Found my old thread.
I recently installed a 160 GB Western Digital Scorpio 2.5 inch IDE hard disk drive in the CF-T1.
First, UNSUCCESSFUL attempt because of 128 GB limit of BIOS:
1) Connect the new drive to the CF-T1 in an external USB enclosure and format it.
2) Copy the internal 80 GB drive to the new drive on USB with XXClone. With this tool, you have to write MBR in a separate step.
3) Cut the pin(s) 44 and 41 of the new drive as described in the first post.
4) Install the drive in the CF-T1
5) With a home made program, I filled the hard disk with dummy data.
6) After the 128 GB limit was reached, the icons on the Windows desktop started to get blank and Windows was broken.
7) Abort.
Second, so far SUCCESSFUL attempt using a sub-128 GB partition:
1) Connect the new drive to the CF-T1 in an external USB enclosure.
2) Create a partition with a size of 130000 MB. 130000 x 1024 * 1024 is just a bit less than 128 * 1024 * 1024 * 1024. Leave the remaining space untouched.
3) Copy the internal 80 GB drive to the partition on the new drive on USB with XXClone. With this tool, you have to write MBR in a separate step.
4) Cut the pin(s) 44 and 41 of the new drive as described in the first post.
5) Install the drive in the CF-T1
6) With a home made program, I filled the hard disk with dummy data.
7) After the volume was nearly full, the home made program aborted, Windows issued a low disk space warning, but nothing else happened. OK.
Using a partially empty 160 GB drive gives more disk space than using a 120 GB drive, because the 128 GB limit can be maxed out. I think the 120 GB drive gives only about 110 GB usable. I now have 126 GB shown in the Windows Explorer.
I tested this only for a day so far. Everything seems OK but more testing will tell.
Anyone else had good luck with larger than 120 GB drives in the CF-T1 or similar model?
OFF-topic musings:
I love my CF-T1 to death. It has a long history. I still use it everyday to surf the Internet and play music. I surf in bed, so the light weight and small size are great. It's been many years I had it, even this thread is 4 years old. My girlfriend uses my 15 inch PowerBook G4 and she named it "the Jumbo" because its so much heftier than the CF-T1. I keep telling her that the PowerBook is one of the sleeker designs in the 15 inch range and comparatively light too.
The 40 GB drive mentioned in my first post died a few years later because I dropped the computer. I replaced it with a 80 GB Samsung drive. The keyboard failed a few years ago and I got a new one, swearing at Panasonic that it didn't come with its own copper heat spreader. Had to move the glued on heat spreader from the old to the new keyboard. On one occasion, I used this liquid metal for heat transfer between CPU and heat spreader. Some metal spilled over and I fried the mainboard. With a lot of luck, I procured two used spare mainboards on an auction site just a short time later.
The flat cable of the keyboard only survives so many plugging ins. After a while, the copper abraded. This happened to my keyboard. I could salvage it by cutting a few mm off the end of the flat cable with scissors. So it is best to not disconnect the keyboard whenever possible. To replace a hard drive, leave the keyboard connected.
I now use arctic silver heat conducting paste for the CPU. I never bothered with heat transfer pads.
On one occasion, I ran the computer with the enclosure open. I stuck a heat sink on the processor. Don't do this. What happens is that the USB connectors are not held in place. So the USB cables will yank the connectors off the mainboard. This happened to me. I painstakingly soldered 4 tiny wires between mainboard and USB connectors to get the USB port to work again.
Well anyway, after all the adventures faithful CF-T1 sits here working fine and I'm typing this message with it.
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Edited by - FrankCH on 11/05/2008 11:01:42 |
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5V hard drives in 3.3V notebooks
